Words by Ashleigh Gribbon
‘Little Richard, Sylvester, Andre 3000, Prince… My goodness, there are too many to mention!’ Miss Jason reflects on the Black style icons that have shaped his own personal sense of style growing up. ‘Prince truly gave us iconic, unforgettable, high-femme glamour and it’s something I can only dream of emulating,’ adds the nightlife expert and founder of ‘Jason’s Closet’ — who’s own eccentric look is loved by followers of his YouTube series. In terms of the modern fashion space, Miss Jason’s most-loved Black talent ranges from global powerhouse brands — the late, great Virgil Abloh’s label, Off-White — to rising new creatives on a fresh, forward-thinking trajectory (cue Botter and Martine Ali). A champion of the new and the next, Brooklyn-based ‘Vogue’ editor Naomi Elizée focuses on the latter. ‘Christopher John Rogers is an incomparable talent,’ she notes on one of fashion's most exciting new names. ‘Everything he does is intentional and well thought out.’ Here, Elizée and Miss Jason celebrate the Black-owned brands to have on your radar and the key pieces to shop now.
Off-White
‘R.I.P to the creative Black genius that was Virgil Abloh. We’re all aware of what he did to bring African-American streetwear culture to the world's stage in such a luxury, upper-echelon way — it’s unmatched. I myself was late to the party and didn’t become properly acquainted with the brand until 2017 when I was shopping for a varsity bomber. I fell in love with how bold the logo and wording was emblazoned on pieces, and how the shape reminded me of the Avirex jackets I’d wear to school (the must-have back then). [I love] the fleeting sense of nostalgia the pieces give me. What this brand has done to further Black and youth culture under the sneakerhead guise is incredible.’
‘This season sees Off-White honoring Abloh’s legacy by fusing streetwear with ultra-high-glam silhouettes. Some of my favorite pieces include the twist-effect top and dress, as well as the knee-high boots with a no-joke stiletto heel — I’ve been staring at them for hours. Abloh's iconic shape of sunglasses [are also among my most-loved pieces].’
Christopher John Rogers
‘I always feel my most beautiful when wearing Christopher John Rogers pieces,’ says Elizée on the rising designer, who’s mood-boosting collections sell out season after season. ‘I love how Rogers incorporates colors, volume, prints and shapes into his clothing. I know that when I support the brand, I'm not just getting pretty clothes but [high-quality pieces] that will last and can be handed down through generations. I’m currently coveting this striped turtleneck sweater.’
‘One of my favorite moments of the label would be when Rogers was just starting out and Cardi B wore his jacket to perform at the BET Awards. It was such an iconic moment because it was a major placement [for the brand] — it was so cool to see such a talented designer get recognition so early on in his career.’
Martine Ali
A Brooklyn-based designer who’s never far from your social feeds, Martine Ali creates iconic chain jewelry and accessories inspired by 1990s grunge and hip-hop culture. ‘If you were to see my Instagram saved folder, you’d see it’s full to the brim of one-of-a-kind pieces by Martine Ali. I’m new to the party with this jeweler but I honestly cannot get enough of how varied yet cohesive her pieces are — she gives us range! I know I’m not the only fan here either; her pieces have been spotted on modern cultural icons like Kendrick Lamar, Doja Cat and Little Miss Fenty herself. I also love the fact that none of the pieces have to be worn in the traditional sense either. Wallet chains double up as fun jewelry pieces, for instance — the possibilities are endless. The caged clutch bag from the brand’s new-season collection is astronomical. I’ve already added it to my basket. I love a talking-point piece and this gives exactly that.’
Wales Bonner
A boundary-breaking vision centered around cultural identity and gender fluidity, Grace Wales Bonner won the prestigious LVMH Prize in 2016. ‘The vision behind the Wales Bonner brand is something that always excites me,’ says Miss Jason. ‘For me, the pieces and its aesthetic hark back to a time when my fellow Caribbeans were asked to come and help build Britain back up after World War Two — the Windrush generation. I recently visited the Black cultural archives in Windrush Square, Brixton. Looking at the imagery and other recorded documents, Wales Bonner and another British designer, Nicholas Daley, instantly came to mind. There’s something about the shape — the tailored tracksuits, the crochet dresses, the color palette — that makes one feel close to that era of time.’
‘I've always admired how Grace Wales Bonner has such a distinct vision of what her brand is,’ adds Elizée. ‘From its ethos to its signature materials and patterns. I currently wish I was on an island sipping a Dark and Stormy wearing the mirror-embellished dress. One of my favorite collaborations to date has to be Wales Bonner x adidas — I finally just purchased a pair of sneakers from the collection after everything being mostly sold out for the last few months!’
Ahluwalia
I love how Ahluwalia combines elements of [founder] Priya's dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots through the prints, patterns, colors and silhouettes of each style,’ says Elizée. ‘The brand currently has a great patterned cardigan that’s the perfect statement piece.’ Miss Jason adds: ‘Aesthetically, I don’t think there’s been a brand like Ahluwalia [before] — and I’m not saying that just because Priya is my friend. For me, it’s the fact that I see her as the first designer of her descent to spearhead a sustainable ethos for a global high-fashion audience.’ Giving existing materials a new life through upcycling textiles and patchwork techniques is a brand signature — an approach that makes many Ahluwalia items one of a kind.
‘Her pieces also highlight both the Bollywood and Nollywood film industries. They speak to an immigrant and first-generation demographic in such a poetically vibrant way. It’s honestly astonishing to watch. Her new collection highlights the beauty in Africa. My favorite pieces are the asymmetric silk-look dresses — she’s really perfected styles that are wearable and hug the figure in all the right places, regardless of size.’
Martine Rose
‘Martine Rose is a cult classic. Everything the brand creates feels so nostalgic. It reminds me of the 1990s and 2000s, when the British pub and football culture ruled. The brand is rooted in the notion of community and togetherness but in a very British working-to-middle-class sense (very me). It’s one of those, ‘if you know, you know’ things. I love when Martine Rose does an accessory or a shoe. Some of my favorite pieces from the current collection are the snake-effect mules, the slogan baseball cap and asymmetric striped shirt. Also, might I just add, Rihanna has been seen snapped in Martine Rose more than five times now. She’s a fan, we’re all fans together!’
‘I’m also a big fan of Martine Rose,’ Elizée adds. ‘She’s truly influenced me to wear more tailoring and neutral colors — something I never thought would happen! Her pieces have [worked their way] into my wardrobe staples. I’m desperate for a pair of Martine Rose mules to wear with an oversized jean — I recently purchased the covetable rhinestone pair. Every time I wear them I feel like a disco ball.’
Botter
Self-coined ‘Caribbean couture,’ Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter’s rising genderless label is certainly one to watch. Inspired by a fusion of music, literary and culinary influences of a rich and hybrid Caribbean culture, Botter’s artful and progressive vision explores the possibilities for a plastic-free world for spring/summer 2023, with luxury pieces made from algae. ‘Botter is a newer brand on my radar, but it’s definitely captured my attention. I remember seeing the spring/summer 2023 show and loved how forward-thinking its silhouettes were, as if we were all transported to 2050. A brand with a futuristic look that’s wearable and doesn’t come across as ‘costumey’ will always have me intrigued. Rather than looking back and emulating previous design eras, we could be looking towards the next big thing.’
‘I also love how gender-free its collections are. The roll-neck gloves are a piece I’d never pictured before. I also adore that, just like Martine Rose, Botter delivers small quirk factors, like its Afro Comb leather bag — I want it yesterday.’