Marlon Brando’s style was nothing if not authentic. His most characteristic style moment was, paradoxically, a time when no one in the world knew what he was wearing — the year was 1973, and the occasion was the Oscars, indeed, one of fashion’s biggest nights. Being called up to receive his award for Best Actor for his role in The Godfather, Brando was nowhere to be seen.
Instead, Sacheen Littlefeather, a Native American from the Apache tribe, accepted the award on his behalf of Brando, reading a letter stating that Brando could not accept the accolade whilst Hollywood perpetuated such injustices against minorities. Though Brando’s stand may now seem prescient and forward-thinking, it was then hugely confidential and met with jeers from the crowd.
Marlon Brando’s fashion, both on and off screen, was never easy to pigeonhole. He was, from his earliest roles as a restless wharfie and hot-tempered Stanley Kowalski, a theatrical force to be reckoned with. Marlon Brando movies, along with James Dean's, defined the look of the 1950s outsider: the good-looking, young kid with nowhere to go and nothing to do but sit atop his fender in a slick leather jacket. Ever-unpredictable, he promised director Francis Ford Coppola to both read the script of Apocalypse Now and Heart of Darkness, its source material, before arriving on set. When cameras rolled, it was evident that Brando had done neither, preferring, in characteristic style, to infuse his performance with the madness and intensity that came from making it up as he went along — as perfect a symbol of Marlon Brando’s fashion, if ever there was one.
On the Waterfront
The 1950s are better remembered for their white picket fences, Stepfordism and the nuclear family. The zeitgeist was one of social cohesion and material contentment as the world tried to pull itself back together after the most destructive and bloody decade humanity had ever witnessed. It came as an utter shock, then, when groups of young men existing on the margins of society, rejected this social mould, with its veneer of perfection and tranquility. Represented perfectly by Marlon Brando’s fashion and that of his compatriot James Dean, these ostensibly aimless young men represented the ultimate threat to 1950s society — utterly rejecting the values of the decade for a life on the road.
The look was epitomised by the leather jacket. Rough and ready, its grazes and imperfections were symbolic of a life lived on the road; seductive and ready to lure the unsuspecting to a live of aimless wandering. The key to the classic leather jacket is fit. Originally intended to protect bikers’ skin in case of a fall, the classic biker jacket should fit snugly, but nevertheless project a bulky silhouette. Off-White, known for its bold reworking of classic streetwear, offer a range of iconic biker jacket designs, not far removed from the classic Brando look. For something a little more avant-garde and dramatic, try German house, Philipp Plein. Their iconoclastic versions reinterpret the classic biker cut with punk-ish edits.
A Streetcar Named Desire
The more Brando came to personify the outsider, the more noteworthy and prestigious his roles became. Marlon Brando movies gradually became associated with a certain edge and authenticity, propelled by his ‘New York School’ method acting style. Working with big-ticket directors like Elia Kazan on scripts by the likes of Tennessee Williams, Brando was, by the end of the 1950s, one of the most respected and sought-after actors in Hollywood.
It was at this time that Brando bequeathed his greatest legacy to the world of fashion. Typically, this came from exploring a character: Stanley Kowalski, the rough and violent husband of Stella. The film’s wardrobe team assigned Brando a classic, everyday garment — the T-shirt — in order to express the character's toughness and rugged sexuality. Worn with Marlon Brando’s jeans, a classic boot-cut of the kind made by Jacob Cohen, the look defined a generation of American men. Brando’s T-shirts were allegedly heat-shrunk onto him, as fitted T-shirts weren’t readily available in the 1950s. Fortunately now, houses like Comme des Garçons Shirt have a form-fitting varieties aplenty.
The Godfather
Of all Marlon Brando movies — the most iconic features him in the most traditional outfit. As godfather Don Corleone, Brando plays the ruthless yet sympathetic head of the Corleone crime family in New York. Set in the 1940s and 1950s, Brando’s portrayal of the iconic gangster saw him donning a revolving gallery of fine dinner jackets and thick, knee-length coats.
The Italian style featured in The Godfather is steeped in timelessness and tailoring. For that look, consider Italian labels like Ermenegildo Zegna, a family business-cum-high-fashion house combining classic tailoring with slim, contemporary silhouettes. For coats, try Brunello Cucinelli, whose classic designs perfectly complement the classic beauty that is Italian suiting.
Like all great trends, Marlon Brando’s style so perfectly articulated the zeitgeist that it became a touchstone for American fashion. With T-shirts and leather jackets dominating the fashion vocabulary, Marlon Brando’s profound style influence has extended well into the 21st century.