There Was One: Our Conscious Journey

I. THE BRAND 

 

There Was One is a new brand operated by New Guards Group, owned by and sold exclusively through FARFETCH. It possesses a conscious soul that strives for continuous improvement.

 

There Was One operates a low inventory business model that only produces what is purchased by FARFETCH. Additionally, it steers away from the traditional fashion calendar – it eschews seasonal collections to instead focus on carefully planned drops. 

 

II. OUR DESIGN APPROACH AND MATERIAL SELECTION

 

All materials used in our collections are carefully selected and developed with Italian suppliers. Most of our textiles are exclusively developed for There Was One. We pay great attention to every detail to ensure the best and most environmentally friendly option is selected or developed. All material sourcing is backed by third-party certifications.

 

We will only qualify a product as ‘Conscious’ if greater than 50% of the item is made from eco-friendly materials (e.g. recycled and upcycled fibers, organic, and low cellulosic fabrics such as closed loop or FSC certified viscose). Please note that this is the minimum threshold we have set, but the majority of the products reach a higher percentage than this. 

 

To improve the future recyclability and circularity of our garments, we prioritize non-mixed fibers. In other words, we choose not to mix natural and synthetic fibers. And although we recognize that for some product categories, recycled synthetic fibers guarantee performance, we prefer to opt for natural, renewable and biodegradable sources. 

 

We know that designing products with circular design principles in mind is essential to minimize our impact on the planet. Therefore, our ambition is to solely create products from recycled and upcycled materials using circular solutions. As an upcoming online brand, we plan to release our products using a drop system instead of committing to the fashion industry’s traditional calendar; this will allow us to produce smaller, more efficient collections. 

 

It's against our ethos to destroy deadstock. So, we gingerly plan our material purchases to maximize their use. During collection sampling and prototyping, we reuse all offcuts left from the previous drop. Furthermore, our suppliers employ advanced technology to optimize pattern-cutting processes and minimize waste and offcuts at production.

 

SOME FACTS ON OUR MATERIALS:

 

Above all, There Was One believes that responsibility means longevity. Whilst we strive to have an entire range made of conscious materials, we experienced some sourcing restraints when putting together our debut collection. As a result, there are some minor exceptions on small details such as ribbons and trims. We recognize that this is due to a lack of eco-friendly options on the market which comply with our longevity standards, such as tear resistance and elasticity. Similarly, some recycled options have been tested but aren’t yet satisfactory in terms of longevity and performance.

 

Most studs and buttons (employed in our denim items) are not chemically treated or galvanized, and their appearance is achieved through a mechanical process that is far less water and chemical-intensive than the conventional processes.

 

• All of our synthetic fibers are made of 50-70% recycled material coming from both post and pre-consumer waste. We prioritize post-consumer where possible. 

 

• All organic fibers are 100% organic and not mixed with synthetic or virgin fibers. When we use recycled cotton, we combine it with organic cotton and not virgin cotton. 

 

• For viscose to qualify as a conscious material for TWO, we only employ FSC certified viscose that’s derived from responsibly managed forests. We also have options that are produced with a closed-loop system. Manufacturing fibers using a closed-loop system means that the chemicals and water utilized in the production process are constantly reused, halving consumption compared to standard viscose systems. 

 

In our first and second drop for the womenswear and menswear product range, the material composition is as follows:

 

• 55% organic cotton fibers

• 25% recycled and upcycled synthetic fibers

• 9% low-impact cellulosic (of which 18% is closed-loop and 72% FSC certified)

• 8% organic silk, organic wool and Woolmark wool non-mulesed fibers

• 3% certified leather from Leather Working Group Gold (Gold certified) tanneries

 

III. MATERIALS BREAKDOWN

 

Our certified organic materials include:

 

• Certified organic cotton. As its production is based on a system of farming that maintains and replenishes soil fertility without the use of toxic, persistent pesticides, synthetic fertilisers and genetically modified organisms, the cotton has a low ecological impact.

 

• Certified organic silk and wool to guarantee animal welfare.

 

Our certified recycled materials include:

 

• Cardato certified cotton. The cotton we use is sourced from pre and post-consumer clothing waste, and is made in the district of Prato, Tuscany.

 

• Texloop™ recycled cotton. The cotton we use is obtained from the recycling and upcycling of existing clothes. The global platform Texloop™ reclaims natural and synthetic fibers from post-industrial, pre-consumer and post-consumer textile waste and transforms them into new textiles with our Italian supplier.

 

• Q-NOVA® certified polyamide. This material is made with pre-consumer and post-consumer waste materials that cannot be reused in any other way and would otherwise be disposed of. 

 

• Certified recycled wool. The recycled wool we use conforms to GRS (Global Recycled Standard). As clearly stated in our animal welfare policy, mulesing and cruel treatment is not acceptable. We keep tabs on the country of origin of the material, as well as the material certification, and we ask our suppliers to provide proof to guarantee that they do not supply mulesed wool. 

 

• Certified recycled polyamide. The polyamide we use is created in such a way that saves energy and water and reduces the need for new raw materials.

 

• Certified alternatives to animal down. These alternatives are made from animal-free materials as we aim to support animal welfare in every way possible.

 

Our certified low-impact cellulosic materials include:

 

• LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose. This material is produced from wood and pulp derived from responsibly managed forests and certified sustainable sources. The manufacturing of LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibers halves emissions and water impact compared to fibers of typical viscose. 

 

• FSC-certified viscose. The wood pulp used to create this viscose is sourced from responsibly managed forests.

 

IV. OUR PACKAGING AND LABELS 

 

Our goal is to use circular packaging with zero plastic. Although packaging is kept to a minimum, we ensure that all products are well protected inside of our packaging, which consists of a certified compostable bag and an FSC mix-certified recycled box and paper.

 

The primary swing tag attached to each garment is not just compostable, it also leaves a positive impact on the environment by containing seeds that grow into evergreen plants and herbs. Instructions on how to plant the label are printed on the tag. Other labels attached to the garment are made using OEKO-TEX CLASS 1 certified natural materials.

 

V.  OUR COMMITMENT TO ANIMAL WELFARE

 

Our internal Animal Welfare Policy regulates animal welfare and outlines our commitments  such as forbidding mulesing and avoiding real down.

 

The brand traces the provenance of all animal-derived materials and components and works exclusively with certified sustainable materials recognized by international standards.

 

If certification is not possible (e.g. the certification of mother of pearl buttons), we ask our suppliers to detail the provenance of the material to ensure the component doesn’t derive from a risk country or species. If it does, we completely avoid using the material.

 

VI. CLIMATE CHANGE TARGETS

 

We're currently calculating the carbon impact of There Was One as the brand is still in its early stages. 

However, FARFETCH and New Guards Group calculate their carbon footprint on an annual basis. Thus, the brand will feature in the 2021-2022 Carbon Calculation, published as part of the FARFETCH Group carbon footprint. 

 

There Was One’s climate targets are aligned with FARFETCH Group targets. Fundamentally, the aim is to be Climate Positive by 2030. To reach this goal, we aim to: 

• work with our tier 1 suppliers to set Science Based Targets.

• encourage and support suppliers in switching to renewable energy.

• use low-impact materials and production processes.

• reduce our transport and distribution impact. 

• improve environmental standards and certifications through our supply chain project.