The traditional combination of brown and green originally used in the tweed jacket or blazer was meant to reflect the countryside’s color palette. Even those unfamiliar with the various nuances of British sartorial etiquette only need take a cursory glance at costume drama Downton Abbey to understand how the fabric became the outdoor uniform of the upper classes. Hunting, shooting and fishing were all pursued while wearing the finest tweed three-pieces.
The material has maintained its air of aristocracy and is still considered appropriate attire when in the countryside. But there has also been a shift; an obfuscation of dress codes. Tweed has made its way to the urban jungle.
Country mouse to city mouse
City tweed doesn’t go in for muddy colors and utilitarian tailoring. Instead, it is adventurous and daring: think dip-dyed yarn and boucléd textures, frayed edges and oversized buttons. The recent tapestry of tweed, with blue and gray checkered pencil skirts at Dior, asymmetric, tasseled wool tops at Loewe and vibrant, multicolored coats from Isabel Marant can be seen in runways and the streets. Meanwhile, Miu Miu and Balenciaga weaved authentic-looking hunting wear into denim, floral brocade and leather.
Yet the true masterclass in urban tweed comes year after year, season after season from the powerhouse that is Chanel. The designer showed boots tipped with pink tweed, tweed military jackets with gargantuan puff sleeves and tweed boiler suits in recent collections season after season. Consider adding a touch of nostalgia to your wardrobe with a women's tweed blazer from the Chanel Vintage archives.
A style to suit you
Tweed suits may conjure images of quintessentially British dapper dandies, but designers have also bestowed the look with a feminine softness over the years. Take Bottega Veneta’s oversized suit. This two-piece combined a chartreuse cardigan-blazer hybrid with slouchy trousers for a contemporary twist on a classic. It created a more relaxed approach with a material that can seem formal and restrictive.
A tweed suit can go from boardroom to bar at the change of a heel. This tailored ensemble is a welcome antidote to all-black workwear and injects a dash of wholesome artistry into your wardrobe. Alexander Wang's tweed peplum jacket gives only a perfunctory nod to the material’s heritage. Stone-grey, smooth in texture and with a striking cut-away element, it’s more working girl than country girl.
Tweed jackets by Simone Rocha are crafted from a heavier material, but the oversized floral buttons provide them with a softer look. Pair yours with kick-flare pants for a touch of 70s appeal.
Blazer of glory
The fashion savvy revere the blazer and consider it one of those divine do-no-wrong pieces that's up there with leather jackets, loafers and the white button-down. After all, the women's tweed blazer is a wardrobe staple that can lift any outfit – even when just shrugged over a tee. Designs by Dolce & Gabbana are prime examples of blazers done right. In brown and cream or muted black and white, they exude understated sophistication.
The V-neck tweed jacket from Dalood, with distressed threads and a long-line silhouette, acts as the perfect accompaniment to floaty dresses or palazzo pants, its boxy, masculine shape balancing the less structured pieces.
Dress to twill
Think of tweed dresses and it’s difficult not to imagine Vivienne Westwood. The designer gave punk credibility to the homespun fabric – so much so that her ruched tweed skirts are instantly recognizable. Recently, other designers have been dabbling with the concept of tweed midis, maxis and minis. From the swishy 50s-style skirts at Miu Miu to the dresses of Gucci’s eccentric librarian collection, these styles have come a long way from their manor house days. Giorgia Tordini and Pernille Teisbaek are among the street-style stars donning tweed skirts and dresses. With tweed, the pattern is clear: it’s here to stay.